Split vs. Dubrovnik: Which Croatian city should you visit?

A few weeks ago, I made my first ever trip to Croatia. In 7 days, I saw most of two main cities: Split and Dubrovnik. Split is located more north, and with a short(ish) ferry ride, you can be in Dubrovnik in 4 – 4.5 hours.

The entrance to Buza bar in Dubrovnik.

What’s the draw to these two cities?

Split and Dubrovnik are Croatian coastal cities with beautiful historic city centers.

While they share several similarities, they also have some differences that make them each unique vacation destinations.

While I would recommend visiting both for the full Croatian experience if you can, let’s compare them.

I’ll specifically be comparing:

  • Atmosphere
  • Walkability
  • The Adriatic Sea
  • Price
  • Food
  • Day trips
A perfect view from Beach Club Hvar.

Atmosphere

Split: Upon arrival to the Old Town, you’ll find yourself on the promenade, which is ocean front and lively with people, especially at night. The crowds there were fairly young and dressed up: men in white linens and women in vibrant dresses. Despite the historic architecture, Split had a hip vibe as I walked the promenade.

The main draw of the Old Town is Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient Roman palace and fortress built for Emperor Diocletian in the late 200s AD. Around it are mazes of narrow cobblestone streets full of shops.

The Old Town is the main draw of the city. I stayed right off of the promenade, where I could really get a feel for the historic vibe of the city. Being on the water while also being surrounded by historic buildings and streets made Split seem like the perfect summer destination.

Plaza in the Old Town before the day began.
This was the vibe of Split…old building facades and streets with cozy corners and inviting shops.
A preview of the promenade…lush green bushes, flowers and palm trees. Right across the street is the ocean and the ferry ports.
I heart Split!

Dubrovnik: The hot spot in Dubrovnik is also its Old Town, located within ancient city walls. It has 4 main entrances from the outside, and walking into the Old Town is like taking a step back in time.

As you enter, you walk down several stairs and narrow passages and streets. I was entranced by the tall city walls with castle-like structures and stone buildings. There’s so much exploring to be done with stairs leading you somewhere new around every corner.

You can even pay to walk on top of the city walls – just make sure you do it early to beat the crowds and the heat.

Both Dubrovnik and Split are home to filming location for the famous “Game of Thrones” series, and there are several places throughout each city that you might recognize from the show.

Venturing down several stairs to approach the city walls… and here’s the epic view!
Exploring Dubrovnik leads you through mazes of streets where you might find sleepy cats resting under green shuttered windows and clothes hanging to dry.
The Jesuit Stairs, a historical landmark and notable GOT filming location.

Walkability

Split: I was surprised by how flat Split was. It was so easy to walk around the main promenade of the old town, Riva, and to see Diocletian’s Palace.

The entire Old Town was beautiful, and staying there allows you to be a walk away from all of the best restaurants, shops and ferry ports.

We did venture out of the Old Town to go to some beaches. It was no issue at all. Ubers were available quickly and they only cost about $5 to go on any 10-15 minute ride.

Riva, the promenade, in Split. It’s very flat and right across the street is the water. During the evenings, this is the place to be.
A little plaza near where we stayed. This photo was taken bright and early before the crowds arrived.

Dubrovnik: Ubers were our friends in Dubrovnik because it’s not as walkable once you leave the Old Town. The city is connected by steep stairs leading down to the city walls.

Even if you are staying in the Old Town, you will have to lug your suitcase down a bunch of stairs to enter the Old Town, and then up them again when it’s time to leave.

If you didn’t train for the stairs before staying in Dubrovnik, your legs might be in for a shock. Especially in early July, the steps and the heat made for some very sweaty days exploring the city.

On our walk from the Airbnb, we encountered several stairs, and found this cat, amongst many, along the way.
The elevation made for great views as we descended to the Old Town for dinner.
You’ll find many narrow streets with stairs, like this one, once you enter the Old Town.

The Adriatic Sea

Split: The views in Split do not disappoint. All of the beaches have picturesque views of the Adriatic Sea’s sparkling blue water. The beaches here are more rocky, so either bring your water shoes or brave through the rocks until you can tread water.

My friends and I went on a boat excursion to the Pakleni Islands and Hvar, and the swimming spots along the way were unreal. The turquoise water with the mountainous background in the distance was gorgeous, and the water was the perfect way to refresh in whatever European heat wave we had found ourselves in.

Trstenik Beach, Split, Croatia.
Stopping for a swim on our catamaran boat day off of Hvar.
I mean… this is some of the most beautiful water I’ve ever seen!
The view from our boat trip as we returned to Split.

Dubrovnik: Imagine stunning blue beaches for swimming and sparkling ocean views from high above. Like Split, Dubrovnik is also a coastal city on the Adriatic Sea. Free public beaches and beach clubs alike give you access to the crystal water.

You can also take a boat ride to nearby islands, go on the popular kayak tours that leave right near the city walls, or go cliff jumping (!!) at places like the famous Buza Bar.

Banje Beach was an amazing public beach in Dubrovnik.
So much (tiny) sea glass at Banje Beach!
Cliff jumping at the famous Buza bar.
Peaceful ocean view as the sun was about to set.

Price

Split: I found split to be a little bit less expensive than Dubrovnik. The prices in most areas were touristy, but not everywhere. To give you an idea of some of the prices:

  • 60 euros for a front row bed at a beach club
    • The food was more expensive here than in the center city
  • 140 euros for a 10 hour boat day that included lunch
  • 15-20 euros for the average restaurant meal
  • 5 euros for Ubers
  • Around 70 dollars per person per night for the Airbnb my friends and I stayed at in the Old Town

Dubrovnik: This city was a little bit more expensive than Split.

  • 60 euros for a bed at a beach club, not front row
    • The food was crazy expensive from the beach club
  • 20-30 euros for the average restaurant meal
  • 10-20 euros for Ubers
  • Around 75 dollars per person per night for the Airbnb my friends and I stayed at, which was a 20 minute walk from the Old Town

I think it’s fair to say that if you’re traveling on a budget, you can make your budget work in either city.

Choosing restaurants that aren’t too expensive, walking or using public transportation instead of Ubers, and choosing your accommodation wisely would all be choices to minimize your spending.

Food

Split: I found the food to be great here! There were so many restaurant options, you could find something for everyone. Seafood and pasta were very popular menu items, though.

Our top picks are definitely…

  • Ciri Biri Bela for all your brunch cravings
  • Portas for homemade pizza
  • Ikra Fish & Wine for, well, local fish and wine
Breakfast burrito, eggs Benedict, hummus toast and a yogurt bowl at Ciri Biri Bela.
Pizza and greek salad at Portas.
Shrimp tempura tacos and local white wine at Ikra.

Dubrovnik: The cuisine here was similar to Split. A lot of choices and a lot of Mediterranean influence.

Our top picks include…

  • Lady Pi Pi’s for epic octopus salad and fresh seafood
  • Moskar for local cuisine in the Old Town
  • Silk for Asian meals and crafted cocktails
  • Peppino’s Gelato factory for some of the best pistachio gelato ever (!)
Octopus salad (and a view!) at Lady Pi Pi’s.
Rich truffle gnocchi at Moskar.
Kimchi fried rice topped with an egg at Silk.
Peppino’s gelato! Coffee is the top scoop and pistachio is the bottom scoop.

Day trips

Split: From Split, a must-do day trip is the Dalmatian Island of Hvar. The ferry ride from the main port is a little under an hour.

During my 4 days in Split, I made two separate journeys to Hvar. It’s known for a being a party island, but my friends and I enjoyed the more relaxed day-time version by exploring the downtown and going to the beach. Don’t forget to watch huge yachts dock near the port, check out Beach Club Hvar, and shop!

Yachts and small boats in Hvar, with lush palm trees and unbelievable water.
I don’t know if it gets better than this… a fresh bowl of fruit with ice at Beach Club Hvar, and stunning coastal views all around you.

Dubrovnik: There’s two main day trip destinations from Dubrovnik, and they are in other countries! Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Both destinations offer beautiful nature scenes. Enjoy the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, or Mostar and Kravice Waterfalls in Bosnia. Looking to check some more countries off of your travel bucket list? Staying in Dubrovnik can be the perfect chance to make these day trips happen.

Where should you choose?

I couldn’t have imagined my trip to Croatia in just one of these cities. Looking back, I had such memorable experiences in both Split and Dubrovnik. I think Split probably makes for an easier stay and simpler navigation, but the Old Town in Dubrovnik was so special – I wouldn’t miss it if I were you!